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BEER

The beer-ifation of class

125 types of beer on the wall, 125 types of beer ... CATHERINE TSAI deconstructs the process by which a new style of beer is born.

Charlie Papazian, president of the Brewers Association, who oversees the guidelines for categorizing beer ... and a few of his best friends. (AP Photo/HO/Courtesy of Brewer Association/Sandra Papazian)

Tuesday, 17 July, 2007, 17:06 EDT, US

In the beginning there was beer, and some might have called that good enough.

But between today's tinkering brewers and more experimental drinkers, we've got fruit-infused beers, summer beers, tequila beers and organic beers to go along with the stouts, Pilseners, pale ales, porters, Bocks and lagers we were finally getting used to.

Never fear -- the Brewers Association, based in Boulder, Colo., has categorized and subcategorized them all, with style guidelines tweaked each year to document new concoctions, clarify descriptions and scrap styles no longer in favor.

The guidelines also help organize entries in the Great American Beer Festival and the World Beer Cup, where brewers compete in mid-October.

"Think of it like a track meet where there's shot put, the 100-meter dash," said Chris Swersey, competition manager for both contests. "Each one has different rules. So each of these guidelines is a field of play for that particular style of beer."

The 2007 guidelines recognize 125 styles, including six categories or subcategories added this year. Please welcome:

_ Gluten-free beer

_ Pumpkin beer

_ Wood- and barrel-aged sour beer

_ Other low-strength ale or lager

_ American-style sour ale

_ American-style Imperial Stout

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A PLACE TO CALL HOME

Now companies like Russian River Brewing Co., which tries to always have a sour on tap, has a specific spot to enter some of its creations. Russian River's Temptation beer, made in Sonoma County, Calif., is a blond ale aged with a wild yeast in oak barrels that once held chardonnay -- perfect for the barrel-aged sour category. Previously, Temptation won a gold medal at GABF as a Belgian-style ale.

"We had to guess where to enter this beer because there was no category for it," Russian River co-owner Vinnie Cilurzo said.

Brewers Association President Charlie Papazian oversees the tinkering of the guidelines. It starts with him poring over judges' suggestions from the GABF and the WBC, then sending changes through a filtration process with beer experts and Brewers Association staff.

Everything is open to change, even after each year's guidelines are published.

"They're not meant to be laws that beer police are going to enforce," Papazian said.

In fact, a category for experimental beers encourages brewers to be creative. Whether a brew style gets added to the official guidelines depends a bit on history, a little on what's hot in brewing, and a little on whether anyone's drinking it in the real world.

"Beer styles are an example of an innovation that has been successful," Papazian said.

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IMPERIAL ENTANGLEMENT

Still, styles can be eliminated, and judges at competition don't always hand out awards for every category.

"We're right on the teetering point of having maybe too many categories," said Cilurzo. "But at the same time they only give three medals per category."

People get upset, he says, when they don't award gold, silver, bronze.

"But I've judged before on a panel," he said, "where nothing was worthy."

Papazian says the guidelines simply reflect the diverse world of beer over time.

For years, the Brewers Association recognized a British-style Imperial Stout. Then in the 1980s, the late Bert Grant of Yakima Brewing Co. brought something new to GABF.

"He introduced a very strong, black, highly hopped jet black stout that people just loved. It was the hit of the festival. There was always a 20-foot line at the table," Papazian said. "Breweries have copied that version of stout and reinvented it as something other than the more smooth, caramel less-hopped version that originated in the U.K."

A new beer style was born, and it joined the list this year.

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AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL STOUT, according to Brewers Association guidelines:

"Black to very black, American-style imperial stouts typically have a high alcohol content. Generally characterized as very robust. The extremely rich malty flavor and aroma are balanced with assertive hopping and fruity-ester characteristics. Bitterness should be moderately high to very high and balanced with full sweet malt character. Roasted malt astringency and bitterness can be moderately perceived but should not overwhelm the overall character. Hop aroma is usually moderately high to overwhelmingly hop-floral, -citrus or -herbal. Diacetyl (butterscotch) levels should be absent.

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A MASTER'S MATCH

Like wine, beers have ideal matches with food -- and situations, if you ask Papazian. In his own words:

_ WITH A STEAK: "Medium rare: Hoppy with a hint of caramelized malt; quenching American Pale Ale. Well Done: American light lager to wash down the chewy exercise."

_ AFTER GOLF: "Satisfying American amber or brown ale with fresh hoppy aroma and hints of toasted malt to match unbounded and enjoyable outdoor surroundings you have just experienced."

_ AT 30,000 FEET: "Floral, citrus, honey-like, spicy, herbal hoppy India Pale Ale. Pleasant and balanced 'high' flavor impact that is refreshing; Creating an experience of interest -- at jet-induced high altitudes. Great before naps!"

_ AFTER WINNING: "Effervescent, refreshing, exciting flavors of spice, citrus; moderate in alcohol for balanced and longer celebrations -- American-brewed Belgian style spiced and fruity 'Wit' wheat beer."

_ AFTER LOSING: "Strong barleywine ale as a reminder that there's much more in life to look forward to."

_ IN THE COMPANY OF YOUR IN-LAWS: "Sweet malty bock beer to promote conversation and storytelling about stuff you never heard before."

_ BEFORE PROPOSING: "To promote the sense of positive anticipation, a strong American-brewed, Belgian-style ale served in a snifter-type glass: First the sensual dense foamy head. Then floral aroma followed by sumptuous complex flavors and the heady feeling of life looking forward."

_ AFTER DIVORCE PROCEEDINGS: "Imperial India Pale Ale _ the most bitter beer in America."

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asap contributor Catherine Tsai is an AP reporter based in Denver.

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